Rifle Elk Equipment List

 

 

 

This list is intended for hunters who are planning an elk hunt with us and are wondering what kind of equipment to bring. Based on my years of experience, the following list is what I believe you will need.    Johnny Hughes

Rifle - Plan on using a quality, scoped, big-game rifle. Bolt actions are by far the most common action type in western elk country. All major rifle manufacturers offer good bolt action rifles. The .30-06 Springfield and 7mm Magnums should be the minimum cartridges to consider for elk hunting.

Suggested Elk Cartridges

Suggested Bullet Weights

7mm Magnums

160 to 175 grains

.30-06 Springfield

165 to 180 grains

.300 Magnums

180 to 200 grains

.338 Magnums

200 to 225 grains

Bullets - Almost any bullet from any reasonable cartridge will completely penetrate and kill an elk if shot broadside, perfectly behind the shoulder. You cannot always count on making that type of shot. If you hit a bull in the shoulder blade, you need to have a bullet that is big and tough enough to go on through and finish what it started. I actually prefer my hunters to shoot bulls through the back part of the shoulder, because if you can break one or preferably both shoulders, you also took out some important vitals and the bull is not going far.

Conventional boat-tail or ballistic-style bullets are designed for thin-skinned game and are notorious for having the jacket separate from the core if they encounter any heavy bone at all, thus killing penetration. Sometimes they just completely disintegrate. Even the new bonded-core bullets on the market seem to have their limitations. My experience with these new bullets is that they indeed do not separate but still tend to lose massive amounts of weight if they encounter bone, especially at the higher velocities.

Winchester has introduced the XP3, which is a variation of the Fail Safe that is not only tough, but has a high ballistic coefficient as well. Barnes has introduced polymer-tipped X-bullets, called the MRX and Tipped-TSX, that are also excellent. Hornady has recently released the GMX which is a clone of the Barnes Tipped-TSX. Trophy Bonded came out with a Tipped Bear Claw that is an extremely tough, aerodynamic elk bullet. The Swift A-Frames are extremely tough thanks to a strategically-located partition, bonded cores and thick jackets. Up to 300 yards, these bullets perform as well or possibly even better than any others. However, the lack of a polymer tip makes the ballistic coefficients much lower, thus not having as impressive of down-range ballistics as their polymer-tipped counterparts.

The bullet market will continue to evolve and as more manufacturers develop better large-game bullets, more bullets will be added to the list. Until then, these bullets are the absolute best elk bullets on the planet. At least in our professional opinion.

Recommended Bullets

Winchester XP3
Barnes MRX
Barnes Tipped-TSX
Trophy Bonded Tipped Bear Claw
Hornady GMX
Swift A-Frame

Scopes - A pure necessity for an elk rifle. Mid to high-power variables offer the best versatility and will cover most situations encountered while elk hunting. The 3x9 power variable is adequate, although the 4x12 (and even higher) power scopes are gaining in popularity. I have never been a big fan of the 50mm or larger objectives. A quality 40mm objective offers plenty of light-gathering ability. Just turn the power down slightly if shooting in low-light conditions. The 50mm scopes are heavier, bulkier, more expensive and, in my opinion, overkill for the slight twilight advantage. Purchase a quality scope such as a Leupold VX III , Burris Signature, or Zeiss Conquest and don’t look back.

Sight-In - In the absence of a ballistic-compensation reticle, your scope should be zeroed at 300 yards for rifle hunting elk in the west. Do not sight in for any other distance unless your scope is equipped with a multi-range reticle. To accomplish a 300-yard zero, your bullet should be 3.5 to 4.5 inches high at 100 yards depending upon the cartridge and bullet weight. Your bullet will be between 8 and 12 inches low on a 400 yard shot. Aim at the upper shoulder and pull the trigger. That’s a much easier shot than trying to figure out what 2 or 3 feet over the desired point-of-impact looks like. On the other end of the spectrum, your bullet will be 4-5 inches high in the 100-200 yard range. Just hold low on the shoulder on the closer shots. Once you’ve got your rifle sighted in, put away the sand bags and bench rest and practice shooting out of positions you can expect on the hunt. Shoot out of a prone position over your pack, off of shooting sticks, or use a tree trunk to brace yourself on. These are realistic expectations. Practice for the hunt. Fill up milk jugs with water and spread them out up to 400 yards away and when you can consistently hit them from hunting positions, you’re ready. If you can’t shoot those distances at your local shooting range, just use smaller plastic bottles at closer ranges.

Approximate Rifle Ballistics (inches)

100 yds

200 yds

300 yds

400 yds

500 yds

Applicable Cartridges and Bullet Weights

+3.5 +4 0 -8 -18   7mm Ultra Mag/STW (160 gr.) or .300 Ultra/Wby Mag (180 gr.)
+4 +4.5 0 -10 -22   7mm Rem/Short Mag (160 gr.) or .300 Win/Short Mag (180 gr.)
+4.5 +5 0 -12 -26   .30-06 (180 gr.) or .338 Win Mag (225 gr.)

The numbers presented above are approximates and used only for illustration purposes. Many variables exist that will result in deviations from these figures. Shoot your rifle and load at all distances to determine your actual ballistics.

Binoculars - The 10x40mm glass is probably the best overall binocular for most elk hunters. The 10-power magnification is adequate and the 40mm objective, is bright enough in low-light conditions, yet the weight is reasonable. Look for "multicoated lenses" exclusively. Beware of glasses that say "coated lenses" That means one coat. Also if you are looking at roof-prism binoculars, make sure they have "phase-corrected" prisms. If not, you are looking at an inferior glass. Spend the money one time, the first time, and you have a worthwhile investment that will last your lifetime.

Rangefinder -  Probably the biggest advancement in hunting over the last 20 years, is the evolution of the laser rangefinder. It should be a vital piece of equipment to all elk hunters. From bow hunting to rifle hunting, they are essential for accuracy in range estimation. The compact models are limited on the distances of readings, but work best for bow hunting. Rifle hunters should rely on models that deliver range capabilities of over 800 yards. I use a Leica with a 1200-yard capability and highly recommend it. Even though it reads distances far further than I can shoot, it lets me predetermine distances I need to close on bulls to get within rifle range. It will let you make intelligent decisions in so many ways. Sorry to sound like a parrot, but don’t scrimp and go for the cheapest model, you get what you pay for in range finders, too.

Shirts - I have long relied on lightweight, loose-fitting, long-sleeve, camo cotton shirts during warm days. They are inexpensive, yet functional. The long-sleeves provide concealment and protection from the elements. Cotton is a terrible insulator, but it provides excellent breathability and evaporative cooling, which helps on hot, dry days.  Look for lighter camo patterns with gray as the dominant color. Most camo on the market is too dark. The newest, lightweight, loose-fitting synthetic shirts are being made in multiple camo patterns and some hunters prefer them in hot weather over cotton. If the weather is cool or wet, synthetic tops are the base layer of choice. Patagonia Capilene 3 is the best synthetic, base-layer shirt I've found. The expected weather dictates which direction to go.

Pants - Practically the same rule as in shirts. Adjust to changing conditions with layers. Cotton or very light synthetic pants for warm weather, and synthetic or wool pants for cool weather. Use tight-fitting, lightweight, synthetic or wool, long john bottoms during colder weather. I like the 150-weight, merino-wool long johns by Icebreaker the best. Remember to dress for mobility so don't over do it with heavy long johns.

Sweater - During periods of cold and windy weather, I highly recommend one of the wool sweaters with the Windstopper lining. They are extremely warm for their size, shed wind unbelievably well, and are one of the best pieces of equipment I have found in years.

Rain Gear - The final layer of my hunting clothes is packable rain gear. Just make sure you get rain gear with some type of quiet outer finish. All rain gear, even "quiet" rain gear, makes noise. Some is just quieter than others.

Socks - A quality, form-fitting, wool sock will cushion and protect your feet from the constant abrasion they will endure during the many hours of the elk-hunting season. Some people prefer synthetic socks but I like the heavyweight, wool, mountaineering sock by Patagonia best. Summer or winter. It will offer good protection for your feet and contrary to what most people think, wool does not feel any hotter than any other material in warm weather. Cotton socks quickly lose their shape, and then offer very little protection or insulation for your feet. Avoid cotton socks and most of your foot problems will disappear.

Boots - Good boots are an important part of your feet being able to survive the torture of days upon days of elk hunting. Rely on Gore Tex or Dry Plus breathable, waterproof linings. Even if it doesn’t rain, heavy dews can soak ordinary boots. Insulation is not necessary on Elite's hunts. Stiff, Vibram-type soles are best. Make sure you can't flex or bend the sole easily. Side hills and rocks will tear you up if your boots have too soft of soles. Choose anywhere from 6-inch to 8-inch heights. Lower boots typically offer less ankle support but are lighter. Higher boots offer the most support, but are heavier. I like a 6-inch, all-leather, backpacking boot by Asolo. It's light but has good support and a stiff sole and is by far the most comfortable boot I have ever slipped my feet into.

Hat -  A lightweight cap coupled with a synthetic balaclava usually covers most weather situations.

Gloves - Even during warm weather, lightweight or fingerless gloves provide concealment for your hands and protection from grabbing brush. Bring a pair of waterproof, insulated gloves too. When expecting winter conditions, I like to rely on the air-activated hand warmers in my mid-weight gloves. I retain better dexterity and my fingers stay toasty.

Sleeping Bag - (Only for Alan Ranch Hunts) Any bag in the 20 to 30 degree rating.

Daypack - Some type of lightweight pack is required to carry the clothing, gear and food of a mobile elk hunter. Pick a pack with padded shoulder straps, a sternum strap, and a padded hip belt. A good suspension system is the most important feature to look for. Compression straps that keep the load tight to your back are another important feature. The Hornhunter Mainbeam XL is the cat's meow of hunting packs for hunters who need a pack that can comfortably carry 30 to 50 pounds. It has an internal frame. The Hornhunter Mainbeam pack is best for hunters who don't plan on carrying more than 25 pounds of weight. It is a smaller version of the XL without the internal frame. As a result, it is a much lighter pack and will fulfill 90% of guided hunters' expectations. 

Water Container - Staying hydrated is a constant struggle on these hunts. You cannot rely on consistently finding drinking water during the day, so plan on carrying what you will need for the day. You will need a minimum of 1 quart per day. The hydration bags such as those by Camelbak are ideal. They collapse as you use the water therefore they never slosh and the space they require diminishes as you use the water. Besides, they keep water accessible to you at all times and you will find you drink more than if you have to dig a water bottle out of your pack. This is important, because you need to drink a lot of water as dehydration seriously affects your physical performance, especially at high altitude.

Emergency Kit - Put together an emergency kit consisting of an emergency space blanket, fire starter, and butane lighters. If you are forced into a situation where you have to spend an unplanned night in the woods, you will be equipped to do it.

Flashlight - Bring a small flashlight with enough batteries to last the week. The AAA battery LED headlight models such as those by Petzal are great.

Camera - A small, digital camera will record invaluable memories of your trip. Assuming you’re successful, your guide will have a camera to take photos of your bull. However, cameras fail and two sets of photos are always better than one. So bring a camera.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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