This list is intended for hunters who are planning an elk hunt with Elite and are wondering what kind of equipment to bring. Based on my years of experience, the following list is what I believe you will need. Johnny Hughes
Rifle - Plan on using a quality, scoped, big-game rifle. Bolt actions are by far the most common action type in western elk country. All major rifle manufacturers offer good bolt action rifles. The .30-06 Springfield and 7mm Magnums should be the minimum cartridges to consider for elk hunting. The .300 and .338 magnums are preferred by Elite’s guides. In my opinion, the smaller calibers, including the .270’s, do not shoot heavy-enough bullets to have much knockdown power at distances of 300 to 400 yards, which you should be capable of shooting, if you intend to hunt elk. Don’t get me wrong, a .270 will certainly kill an elk, I just don’t think it is the best choice for the task at hand. Big cartridges are no substitute for poor shooting, but the heavier bullets, moving just as fast, have much more momentum and killing power. We owe it to the elk to use a cartridge that will consistently produce the cleanest kills. Wounding and losing an elk hurts everybody, especially the elk. Also, I don’t want to hear about magnum recoil anymore, not in this technological day and age. The advances in recoil pads, barrel porting and muzzle brakes have eliminated this problem. Just talk to a good gunsmith.
|
Suggested Elk Cartridges |
Suggested Bullet Weights |
|
7mm Magnums |
160 to 175 grains |
|
.30-06 Springfield |
165 to 180 grains |
|
.300 Magnums |
180 to 200 grains |
|
.338 Magnums |
200 to 225 grains |
Bullets - Elite has implemented a mandatory bullet policy for 2008. Please see the "Policies Page" for more information.
Scopes - A pure necessity for an elk rifle. Mid to high-power variables offer the best versatility and will cover most situations encountered while elk hunting. The 3x9 power variable is adequate, although the 4x12 (and even higher) power scopes are gaining in popularity. I have never been a big fan of the 50mm or larger objectives. A quality 40mm objective offers plenty of light-gathering ability. Just turn the power down slightly if shooting in low-light conditions. The 50mm scopes are heavier, bulkier, more expensive and, in my opinion, overkill for the slight twilight advantage. Purchase a quality scope such as a Leupold VX III , Burris Signature, or Zeiss Conquest and don’t look back.
Sight-In - In the absence of a ballistic-compensation reticle, your scope should be zeroed at 300 yards for rifle hunting elk in the west. Do not sight in for any other distance! To accomplish this zero, your bullet should be 3.5 to 4.5 inches high at 100 yards depending upon the cartridge and bullet weight. If your scope is zeroed at 300 yards, your bullet will be between 8 and 12 inches low on a 400 yard shot. Aim at the upper shoulder and pull the trigger. That’s a much easier shot than trying to figure out what 2 or 3 feet over the desired point-of-impact looks like. On the other end of the spectrum, your bullet will be 4-5 inches high in the 100-200 yard range. Just hold low on the shoulder on the closer shots. Once you’ve got your rifle sighted in, put away the sand bags and bench rest and practice shooting out of positions you can expect on the hunt. Shoot out of a prone position over your pack, off of shooting sticks, or use a tree trunk to brace yourself on. These are realistic expectations. Practice for the hunt. Fill up milk jugs with water and spread them out up to 400 yards away and when you can consistently hit them from hunting positions, you’re ready. If you can’t shoot those distances at your local shooting range, just use smaller plastic bottles at closer ranges.
Approximate Rifle Ballistics (inches)
|
100 yds |
200 yds |
300 yds |
400 yds |
500 yds |
Applicable Cartridges and Bullet Weights |
| +3.5 | +4 | 0 | -8 | -18 | 7mm Ultra Mag/STW (160 gr.) or .300 Ultra/Wby Mag (180 gr.) |
| +4 | +4.5 | 0 | -10 | -22 | 7mm Rem/Short Mag (160 gr.) or .300 Win/Short Mag (180 gr.) |
| +4.5 | +5 | 0 | -12 | -26 | .30-06 (180 gr.) or .338 Win Mag (225 gr.) |
The numbers presented above are approximates and used only for illustration purposes. Many variables exist that will result in deviations from these figures. Shoot your rifle and load at all distances to determine your actual ballistics.
Binoculars - The 10x40mm glass is probably the best overall binocular for most elk hunters. The 10-power magnification is adequate and the 40mm objective, is bright enough in low-light conditions, yet the weight is reasonable. Look for "multicoated lenses" exclusively. Beware of glasses that say "coated lenses" That means one coat. Also if you are looking at roof-prism binoculars, make sure they have "phase-corrected" prisms. If not, you are looking at an inferior glass. Spend the money one time, the first time, and you have a worthwhile investment that will last your lifetime.
Rangefinder - Probably the biggest advancement in hunting over the last 20 years, is the evolution of the laser rangefinder. It should be a vital piece of equipment to all elk hunters. From bow hunting to rifle hunting, they are essential for accuracy in range estimation. The compact models are limited on the distances of readings, but work best for bow hunting. Rifle hunters should rely on models that deliver range capabilities of over 800 yards. I use a Leica with a 1200-yard capability and highly recommend it. Even though it reads distances far further than I can shoot, it lets me predetermine distances I need to close on bulls to get within rifle range. It will let you make intelligent decisions in so many ways. Sorry to sound like a parrot, but don’t scrimp and go for the cheapest model, you get what you pay for in range finders, too.
Shirts - I have long relied on lightweight, loose-fitting, long-sleeve, cotton shirts during warm days. They are inexpensive, yet functional. The long-sleeves provide concealment and protection from the elements. Cotton is a terrible insulator, but it provides excellent breathability and evaporative cooling, which helps on hot October days. If the weather is cool or wet, the synthetic tops are the base layer. The expected weather dictates which direction to go. Use synthetic shirts exclusively during the winter hunts. Look for lighter camo patterns with gray as the dominant color. Most camo on the market is too dark.
Pants - Practically the same rule as in shirts. Cotton or very light synthetic pants for warm weather, and synthetic or wool pants for cool weather. Use a couple of different weights of tight-fitting synthetic long john bottoms during colder weather. Adjust to changing conditions with layers.
Sweater - During periods of cold and windy weather, I highly recommend one of the wool sweaters with the wind-blocker linings. They are extremely warm for their size, shed wind unbelievably well, and are one of the best pieces of equipment I have found in years.
Rain Gear - The final layer of my hunting clothes is packable rain gear. Just make sure you get rain gear with some type of quiet outer finish. All rain gear, even "quiet" rain gear, makes noise. Some is just quieter than others. If it rains, I have it. If I need an outer layer while sitting on a cold, windblown ridge, I have it.
Socks - A quality, synthetic sock will cushion and protect your feet from the constant abrasion they will endure during the many hours of the elk-hunting season. I also use wool socks and like them, even in warm weather. They offer good protection to your feet and contrary to what most people think, they do not feel any hotter than any other material. Cotton socks quickly absorb sweat, lose their shape, and then offer very little protection or insulation for your feet. Avoid cotton socks and most of your foot problems will disappear.
Boots - Good boots are an important part of your feet being able to survive the torture of days upon days of elk hunting. Rely on Gore Tex or Dry Plus breathable, waterproof linings. Even if it doesn’t rain, heavy dews can soak ordinary boots. Insulation is sometimes necessary by the October rifle seasons and certainly for the winter hunts. Stiff, Vibram-type soles are best. Make sure the boot has lateral and torsional support. Side hills will tear you up if your boots don’t have enough support. Choose anywhere from 6-inch to 9-inch heights. Lower boots typically offer less ankle support but are lighter. Higher boots offer the most support, but are heavier.
Hat - A heavier cap or hat coupled with a synthetic balaclava usually covers most cooler weather situations.
Gloves - Even during warm weather, lightweight or fingerless gloves provide concealment for your hands and protection from grabbing brush. Bring a pair of waterproof, insulated gloves too. When expecting winter conditions, I like to rely on the air-activated hand warmers in my mid-weight gloves. I retain better dexterity and my fingers stay toasty.
Daypack - Some type of lightweight pack is required to carry the clothing, gear and food of a mobile elk hunter. Pick a pack with padded shoulder straps, a sternum strap, and a padded hip belt. A good suspension system is the most important feature to look for. Compression straps that keep the load tight to your back are another important feature.
Canteen - Staying hydrated is a constant struggle on these hunts. You cannot rely on consistently finding drinking water during the day, so plan on carrying what you will need for the day. You will need a minimum of 1 quart per day. The hydration bags such as those by Camelbak are ideal. They collapse as you use the water therefore they never slosh and the space they require diminishes as you use the water. Besides, they keep water accessible to you at all times and you will find you drink more than if you have to dig a water bottle out of your pack. This is important, because you need to drink a lot of water as dehydration seriously affects your physical performance, especially at high altitude.
Sleeping Bag - (Pack-In Camp Only) You will need a good sleeping bag rated down to at least 10 degrees. Cots with pads will be provided. A small pillow is much more comfortable than a wadded up coat, so bring one of those too.
Emergency Kit - Put together an emergency kit consisting of an emergency space blanket, fire starter, and butane lighters. If you are forced into a situation where you have to spend an unplanned night in the woods, you will be equipped to do it.
Flashlight - Bring a small flashlight with enough batteries to last the week. The AAA battery headlight models such as those by Petzal are great.
Camera - A small, 35mm or digital camera will record invaluable memories of your trip. Assuming you’re successful, your guide will have a camera to take photos of your bull. However, cameras fail and two sets of photos are always better than one. So bring a camera.
Alarm Clock - (Pack-In Camp Only) Any small type of reliable alarm clock that will wake you up.
Baby Wipes - (Pack-In Camp Only) A small container or plastic baggie of unscented baby wipes will prove invaluable for personal hygiene.