The muzzleloader equipment discussed is not mandatory to hunt elk with Elite Outfitters. The list is intended for hunters who are planning an elk hunt with Elite and are wondering what kind of equipment to bring. Based on my years of experience, the following list is what I believe you will need.    Johnny Hughes

Muzzleloaders - Elite recommends in-line, scoped muzzleloaders in either .50 or .54 caliber for hunting elk. Many reputable manufacturers have good muzzleloaders on the current market at reasonable prices. Muzzleloaders from makers such as Knight and Thompson/Center are used by many of Elite’s guides and clients. The newest models are much better in foul weather due to innovations such as a sealed breach.

Powder - The synthetic powders, such as 777 and Pyrodex, are used almost exclusively in today’s world over traditional black powder. Use sulfur-free synthetic powder and you will enjoy this sport even more. Many hunters prefer using powder in pellet form as it offers convenience. The pellet charges are pre measured and easier to handle in the heat of battle. The biggest complaint is the pellets don’t burn as completely as an equal weight of granulated powder. Depending on the muzzleloader, this complaint is probably true. Granulated powder is preferred by some hunters because it seems to burn more uniformly, giving more consistent performance. You can’t go wrong either way.

Bullets - When hunting elk, use only premium, muzzleloader bullets such as the Barnes X-Bullets. Barnes now makes a polymer-tipped X-Bullet that is tough and ballistically friendly. These bullets are some of the toughest big-game muzzleloader bullets on the market and can consistently retain over 90% of their weight, even if shot through an elk’s shoulder. Because of their superior weight retention, they will out-penetrate most bullets and penetration is an important factor in elk hunting. In my opinion, they offer the best combination of expansion and penetration.  Some of the new generation of muzzleloader bullets are now being designed with higher ballistic coefficients trying to achieve rifle-like performance. Bullets such as the Thompson/Center Shock Wave Bonded and Hornady SST-ML are much more streamlined and offer better downrange potential and also hold their integrity upon encountering heavy bone. Give technology a few more years and we will all soon be shooting not only tough, but ballistically-friendly muzzleloader bullets. Use 250 to 300 grain bullets for .50 caliber and 300 to 350 grain bullets for .54 caliber. Most of today’s muzzleloader hunters shoot smaller-than-bore diameter bullets with a sabot. These bullets achieve more rifle-like performance with better trajectories, but at a loss of momentum due to lower bullet weights. Just find a good bullet and load that shoots well in your muzzleloader and practice.

Scopes - Scopes will increase your shooting accuracy and overall chances of successfully killing a bull elk. Spend as much on your scope as you do your muzzleloader. I prefer Leupold scopes for their quality and "reasonable" prices. Get a low-power variable scope in the 2x-7x range. It will work well in the timber and open country.

Sight-In - You should zero your scope at 125 yards. Most muzzleloader shots will be under 125 yards, but sometimes 150 to 200 yard shots are what is presented. The new generation of muzzleloaders are lethal out to 200 yards, so practice accordingly. Know where your bullet hits at 50, 100, 150 and 200 yards and then you will be ready.

Binoculars - The 10x40mm glass is probably the best overall binocular for most elk hunters. The 10-power magnification is adequate and the 40mm objective, is bright enough in low-light conditions, yet the weight is reasonable. Look for "multicoated lenses" exclusively. Beware of glasses that say "coated lenses" That means one coat. Also if you are looking at roof-prism binoculars, make sure they have "phase-corrected" prisms. If not, you are looking at an inferior glass. Spend the money one time, the first time, and you have a worthwhile investment that will last your lifetime.

Rangefinder - Probably the biggest advancement in hunting over the last 20 years, is the evolution of the laser rangefinder. It should be a vital piece of equipment to all  hunters. From bow hunting to rifle hunting, they are essential for accuracy in range estimation. The compact models are limited on the distances of readings, but work fine for muzzleloader hunting. Sorry to sound like a parrot, but don’t scrimp and go for the cheapest model, you get what you pay for in range finders, too.

Shirts - I have long relied on lightweight, loose-fitting, long-sleeve, cotton shirts during warm days. They are inexpensive, yet functional. The long-sleeves provide concealment and protection from the elements. Cotton is a terrible insulator, but it provides excellent breathability and evaporative cooling, which helps on hot days. Some of the new hot-weather synthetic shirts on the market are great, but they are pricey. I carry a couple of synthetic thermal tops to use when the evening chill arrives or when rain makes a rude appearance. If the weather is cool or wet, the synthetic tops are the base layer. The expected weather dictates which direction to go. Look for lighter camo patterns with gray as the dominant color. Most camo on the market is too dark.

Pants - Practically the same rule as in shirts. Cotton or very light synthetic pants for warm weather, and synthetic or wool pants for cool weather. Use a couple of different weights of tight-fitting synthetic long john bottoms during colder weather. Adjust to changing conditions with layers.

Sweater - During periods of cold and windy weather, I highly recommend one of the wool sweaters with the wind-blocker linings. They are extremely warm for their size, shed wind unbelievably well, and are one of the best pieces of equipment I have found in years.

Rain Gear - The final layer of my hunting clothes is packable rain gear. Just make sure you get rain gear with some type of quiet outer finish. All rain gear, even "quiet" rain gear, makes noise. Some is just quieter than others.

Socks - A quality, synthetic sock will cushion and protect your feet from the constant abrasion they will endure during the many hours of the elk-hunting season. I also use wool socks and like them, even in warm weather. They offer good protection to your feet and contrary to what most people think, they do not feel any hotter than any other material. Cotton socks quickly absorb sweat, lose their shape, and then offer very little protection or insulation for your feet. Avoid cotton socks and most of your foot problems will disappear.

Boots - Good boots are an important part of your feet being able to survive the torture of days upon days of elk hunting. Rely on Gore Tex or Dry Plus breathable, waterproof linings. Even if it doesn’t rain, heavy dews can soak ordinary boots. Insulation is not usually necessary on most early October muzzleloader hunts. Stiff, Vibram-type soles are best. Make sure the boot has lateral and torsional support. Side hills will tear you up if your boots don’t have enough support. Choose anywhere from 6-inch to 9-inch heights. Lower boots typically offer less ankle support but are lighter. Higher boots offer the most support, but are heavier.

Hat - Any hat that is comfortable will work. Some type of ventilated, lightweight cap is best for warm weather. A heavier cap or hat coupled with a synthetic balaclava usually covers most cooler weather situations.

Gloves - Even during warm weather, lightweight or fingerless gloves provide concealment for your hands and protection from grabbing brush. If hunting in cooler climates, you should consider a pair of waterproof, insulated gloves too. 

Daypack - Some type of lightweight pack is required to carry the clothing, gear and food of a mobile elk hunter. Pick a pack with padded shoulder straps, a sternum strap, and a padded hip belt. A good suspension system is the most important feature to look for. Compression straps that keep the load tight to your back are another important feature.

Canteen - Staying hydrated is a constant struggle on these hunts. You cannot rely on consistently finding drinking water during the day, so plan on carrying what you will need for the day. You will need a minimum of 1 quart per day. The hydration bags such as those by Camelbak are ideal. They collapse as you use the water therefore they never slosh and the space they require diminishes as you use the water. Besides, they keep water accessible to you at all times and you will find you drink more than if you have to dig a water bottle out of your pack. This is important, because you need to drink a lot of water as dehydration seriously affects your physical performance, especially at high altitude.

Sleeping Bag - (Pack-In Camp Only) You will need a good sleeping bag rated down to at least 30 degrees. Cots with pads will be provided. A pillow is much more comfortable than a wadded up coat, so bring one of those too.

Emergency Kit - Put together an emergency kit consisting of an emergency space blanket, fire starter, and butane lighters. If you are forced into a situation where you have to spend an unplanned night in the woods, you will be equipped to do it.

Flashlight - Bring a small flashlight with enough batteries to last the week. The AAA battery headlight models such as those by Petzal are great.

Camera - A small, 35mm or digital camera will record invaluable memories of your trip. Assuming you’re successful, your guide will have a camera to take photos of your bull. However, cameras fail and two sets of photos are always better than one. So bring a camera.

Alarm Clock - (Pack-In Camp Only) Any small type of reliable alarm clock that will wake you up. 

Baby Wipes - (Pack-In Camp Only) A small container or plastic baggie of unscented baby wipes will prove invaluable for personal hygiene.